ASK THE OLD BLOKE ?
Welcome to the latest installment of our Questions page. This is a page where people can write in with questions, which I will try to answer, and will also allow other readers to offer their answers too. There's a lot of experience out there to draw on!
How does this work? Well, what happens is you can send an email by clicking the "email" button at the bottom of the page, (the address, if you want to just cut-and-paste it into your email program, is as follows: theoldbloke_bikes@yahoo.com.au), and I will publish the question, and whatever answer I might have come up with, on the page here.
If you see a question you can offer some help with, or even just an opinion, then send me an email and I will publish your reply too.
CHAIN STRAIN.
Terry wrote in with a question on chain-life. He owns a Yamaha XJR1300, and, knowing I owned the same type of bike, wanted my opinion on chain-life. He wrote, “As an XJR muscle-bike owner, you may be able to answer a question for me. My bike now has 27,000 k's on the clock, I ride the bike almost every day, I keep the chain well lubricated, however it is now a bit stretched in one section (you know, tight - loose in the adjustment). How long could I expect it to last before chain and sprockets requiring changing at the shop? Does it need changing now? How do I tell?”

The Old Bloke’s Reply:
Well, Terry, I’ve got over 32,000km up but I haven’t had any trouble with the chain. It doesn't seem to need adjusting very much, and I must admit I am a bit lax with lubing it. I do look at it and adjust it if required, but it doesn't need it very often. I don't ride it hard, although it does get a burst of acceleration from time to time! (That's always fun!). So, based on my experience with the XJR, I would actually expect it to last a bit longer than that; although I suppose it does depend on how it's used and what conditions you ride in. Water, dust etc – which you get when you ride it every day – all create more wear.
How to tell if it needs replacing? Well one sign is a clicking noise as you push it backwards. This happens because the chain doesn’t mesh smoothly on the sprocket; although it has to be fairly well worn before this symptom arises. One way to tell if the chain has stretched is to pull a link of the chain out away from the sprocket. If you can pull the link halfway off of the sprocket's tooth, the chain needs replacing. If the sprockets need replacing the teeth will look kind of scooped-out on one side, rather than the usual straight-edge triangle; if you know what I mean. They get a kind of hooked appearance when they wear.
In terms of the tight and loose type thing, I suppose it depends on how exaggerated the variation is. If the variation in tight-spot and loose-spot remains within the limits of adjustment it's probably still okay. When it gets too bad you won't be able to adjust it so that the tight spot isn't too tight and the loose part isn't too loose.
I spoke to a mechanic about the issue of chain life. He said, naturally enough, that the life of the chain depended a lot on how the bike was ridden. Obviously the harder it's ridden, the greater the strain on the chain and the quicker it wears. As I mentioned above, I generally ride fairly gently (relative to the performance the bike is capable of), so that does help extend the life.
Anybody else have any tips or info on chains?

Reader's Reply:
Ivor reckons the right hand has a lot to do with chain life. “I think the point about how hard the bike is ridden is a good one. I’ve read about sports-bikes chewing out tyres in 5,000km and chain and sprockets in 15,000km. I’ve also heard varying reports of how long the consumable items like this last from the same model bike, presumably depending on how hard it is being ridden. The other point though is what happens if he is riding it every day. It’s not as bad here as in the UK where there is salt and stuff on the roads to clear ice etc. Just imagine what that does to chains and sprockets! But rain and muck off the road can wear a chain faster than if it is only taken out on clean roads on a dry day.” 
Joe had some good comments on this. “In my experience modern 'O' or 'Z' ring chains can and do last a long time even with minimal maintenance. If you want maximum life the chain and sprockets should be cleaned fairly often with kero and then lubed. The best lube I have used to date is Motul Road. It comes in a 400ml can and costs about $20-25 depending on where you buy it. What I like about this lube is it doesn't fling off the chain like most others do and it's also easy to apply.
“Chain slack is critical to long life. Follow the manufactures instructions and you won't have a problem. If too loose the chain will develop tight spots more readily as the chain will whip around the sprockets and possibly jump off the sprockets. Too tight is even worse as it will put unnecessary strain on gearbox bearing, and the chain might break especially on very bumpy roads.
“So in summary, keep the chain clean and well lubed and properly adjusted and it should last many many kilometres.” Good advice there, Joe! And you’re right, modern chain will last a long time with just minimal maintenance, as I mentioned about mine.

WHAT BIKE IS THIS?
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Wayne sent in this photo to ask if anyone can identify it. He writes, “The attached photo is the only one I have of my father on the bike he rode through the middle east in WW2. My brothers and I have been debating the exact make and size of the bike?
My neighbour, who is into Aerials and AJS, thinks it is a 1938 Norton Big4 (Four Gears) which would make it a 633cc but there was also a 498cc which I believe fits in the same frame.
Do you know anyone that may have an idea?”
The Old Bloke’s Reply:
I'm no expert on vintage bikes, but I know there are a few readers out there who are very knowledgable when it comes to vintage bikes, so can anyone solve this? It's a great photo to have of your father, Wayne, so I hope we get some info for you.

Readers' Reply:
Martin – who has a very good knowledge of classic bikes, especially British bikes, has an answer to this. He wrote, “The photo of the bike is almost certainly a Norton 16 H which were used extensively. Even with enhancement I can't read what is on the tank but I don't think it’s relevant since the traditional Norton logo wasn't used or painted out. They also had rubber knee pads but again don't think the military version used them. There are a number of distinctive clues which include the timing chain cover and rear brake lever. Hope this helps.” I’m sure it will! Thanks Martin.

CLUNK INTO GEAR
This wasn’t exactly a question, because the reader had an answer to the problem when he wrote. In fact it was probably written more as a tip for me rather than a question. But I thought I’d include it here, as a tip for others.
Joe wrote to say that his Yamaha XJR 1300, “Has always loudly clunked into 1st gear from cold, and it’s somewhat embarrassing as the guy next door says he can hear it from his lounge room. After a little research it seems it’s a common problem with Yamaha motorcycles.” Well, it would be a bit embarrassing when your neighbour says he can hear the bike clunk into gear. And while some clunk is normal on probably most motorcycles, if it’s loud enough to annoy the neighbours you’ve got to wonder what it’s doing to the gearbox!
Knowing that I have the same make of motorcycle, Joe wrote to ask if I had the same problem. But, as I mentioned above, he already had a solution. “The solution I have found is to pump the clutch lever repeatedly for a minute or so while the motor is warming up. Apparently the clutch plates stick when cold and this frees them up.” He says that since doing this, “Most of the time 1st gear engages with just a small click.”

The Old Bloke’s Reply:
I think the clunk into 1st gear is common with a lot of bikes, not just Yamaha. It’s more pronounced when starting cold in the morning, and more pronounced if not ridden regularly. As you say, Joe, it’s caused by the clutch dragging – it doesn’t completely disengage and so the gearbox is still turning slightly when the clutch is pulled in. This is, as you say, caused by the plates sticking (not freeing properly from the engine flywheel). The problem isn't too bad when the oil is hot and everything is free, but is worse when first started and the oil is cold.
I have a different solution, Joe. What I do is hold the clutch in as I start it, wait a few seconds, and then put it in gear. There isn't a sound! (Or if there is, it's just a light click). The other thing to do, if you've started it with the clutch out, is to pull the clutch in and give the engine a small rev – just enough that it breaks the sticky clutch / flywheel dragging. Pumping the clutch lever repeatedly is not only more effort, but I would think creates more wear on the clutch components. So I’d recommend just holding it in and giving the motor a very light rev; just enough to break the sticky drag.
One reason why many bikes don’t suffer this problem as noticeably is that it is very common on bikes today to have to hold the clutch in when starting (there is a cut-out switch that prevents it starting – like there is if it's in gear).
Anyway, thanks for raising the issue, and the suggestion.

WAVING AND QUEENSLAND LEGISLATION
Craig wrote in with a couple of questions he would like to see discussed. The first one relates to riders not waving to, or acknowledging, other riders. He asks, “Why don’t riders give a nod or a friendly wave anymore?”
He then turns his attention to the proposed anti-bikie legislation in Queensland  and asks, “What’s the response to the laws they are proposing in Queensland regarding motorcyclists?”

The Old Bloke’s Reply:
Well, let’s look at your first question first.

ACKNOWLEDGING OTHER RIDERS.
In my experience I can’t agree that riders don’t give a nod or wave anymore. True, many will flash by without acknowledging your presence, but I still find that many riders give a nod of the head, or wave, as we pass. I reckon there’s still a lot of camaraderie out there! But what of the ones who don’t?
I never like to generalise, but there do seem to be some common exceptions to the nod-or-wave response to meeting another motorcyclist. I hate to say this, (because I know very well that there are exceptions!), but I find that most Harley riders don’t offer any acknowledgement. I don’t know why – maybe if I was riding a Harley they would? Maybe I’m partly to blame, because it has got to the stage where if I see a Harley approaching I generally don’t wave or nod; because I know (or assume!) that I won’t get any acknowledgement in reply. Having said that thopugh, I recently read a letter in a magazine that asked this same question, and came from a Harley rider. So, as I said, I shouldn't generalise!
Another group who often (but not as consistently) don’t wave or nod are sports-bike riders. I’m talking about the super-sport bikes where the riders are in full racing-leathers. They seem too focused on carving up the road ahead to be bothered about responding to other riders.
Time for another admission. There is a particular group of riders I don’t wave or nod to, and that is riders who aren’t wearing what I regard as appropriate clothing. Some bloke hurtling along in a T-shirt and shorts is not getting a wave from me! I know it’s being judgmental, but I don’t want to appear to be condoning what I view as stupid behaviour. But let’s get back to the main issue.
I think there’s a bit more to it than the issues I’ve mentioned. I think it’s a reflection on society as a whole. We live in a very “me-centred” society, where people – especially, might I say, the younger generation – are more concerned with themselves than others around them. A case of “how the world treats me”, rather than “how I treat the world.” Once again, I know this is a generalisation to which there are many exceptions; but it’s an attitude that is certainly prevalent in our society.
So what should we do? Keep on waving and nodding! Particularly as an older rider, I still get a buzz out of having an approaching rider give me a nod or wave. And I like the feeling of community by offering the same wave or nod to motorcyclists I meet. 

PROPOSED ANTI-BIKIE LEGISLATION.
This is a very hot topic at the moment. Look in the bike mags and social-media sites and so on and there is out-rage aplenty! I must admit I’ve been a bit ambivalent on this subject; which is partly why I haven’t written anything about it on the web-site here. But having been asked the question has made me think it through a bit more. Also, by co-incidence or not, at the time this question came in I read a news article about the latest proposals in the legislation that had to do with the extent of punishment and setting up of bikie-only prisons.
I also read an interesting piece by a friend who operates his own motorcycling web-site. I'll give you a link to that so you can have a read of that too.
Let me firstly state that I totally support the intent of the legislation. Violence associated with these gangs has undoubtedly been a problem; and not just in Queensland, but all over Australia. A few weeks before writing this, police charged 18 people following a brawl between bikie gangs on the Gold Coast. In NSW a man was beaten to death at Sydney airport in 2009, in an outbreak of gang violence. And most of us would probably remember the infamous “Father’s Day Massacre” at Milperra when warring bikie gangs staged a shoot-out that resulted in 7 deaths and 28 people injured. The Queensland government is aiming to put a stop to this violence. And to law-abiding citizens that should be a good thing! But it’s not that simple.
The first thing is that the proposed punishments are extremely severe. Mandatory sentences of 15 years would be imposed for serious crimes, with an additional 10 years to be served if the perpetrator is a club official. The sentence would be served in a bikie-only prison, where in-mates would be kept secluded in their cells for 23 hours each day. There would be no gym facilities or TV access and all communications, such as mail and phone calls, would be monitored. They also propose destroying the bikes of those who are convicted of certain crimes. Strong stuff! Maybe too strong?
Australian Council for Civil Liberties president Terry O’Gorman says that the measures are, “An outrageous return to draconian government.” As much as I think that perpetrators of violence need to be punished, this might be going a bit too far.
As an indication to the sort of mentality that is coming up with these suggestions, the latest thing I heard was a suggestion to force the in-mates to wear pink, to reduce their tough-guy egos. Yes, folks, we pay these politicians to come up with this stuff!
But before we get to the “Lock ‘em up and smash their bikes” stage, there are the measures that police would take to detect the law-breakers. This is what the motorcycling community is most concerned about. Under the legislation any group of motorcyclists could be stopped, searched and have their details taken. The worrying aspect of this is how it will affect law-abiding motorcyclists.
In defining the possible targets for this legislation, the government has taken a broad approach that is not restricted to motorcyclists who are wearing back-patches of known outlaw gangs. Attorney General Jarrod Bleijie said, “The reason we've made a broad interpretation of that definition is so we can catch gangs that aren't operating under bikie colours or criminal motorcycle gang colours.”
Now, I’m inclined to think that police are canny enough to pick which group of motorcyclists are likely to be outlaws and which aren’t; but that’s probably being naive. Mr Newman says that law-abiding motorcyclists have nothing to fear; but then adds, “But we do ask for their patience.” That seems to suggest that, while we may have nothing, ultimately, to fear, we may well have to suffer the inconvenience, harassment and embarrassment of having the finger-of-suspicion pointed very firmly at us!
In practical terms, the average law-abiding motorcyclist and a few of his equally law-abiding mates could be out for a pleasant ride only to find themselves being stopped, searched and basically treated like suspected criminals. A case of being treated as (potentially) guilty until proven innocent.
Throughout all my years of riding I have tried to do whatever I could to promote a positive image of motorcycling; but if this legislation is passed, it will only perpetuate that old image that anyone who rides a motorbike is a potential criminal! I thought we’d overcome that a long time ago, and on that basis alone, this legislation is potentially the most damaging thing for motorcycling that I’ve seen in many years! And the fact it comes from politicians makes it even worse!
Here is a link to the article my friend wrote – it’s well worth the read!
http://www.halfofmylife.com/2013/10/14/motorcycling-and-politics/

Readers' Replies:
All our replies - and surprisingly, there weren't that many - came on the the subjcbt of the proposed "anti-bikie" legislation.
Con thought this was a controversial issue; or not. He writes, “You’ve opened a real can of worms there, Old Bloke! Or probably not. I think most people reading your site would agree that legislation is rubbish! In the past couple of days there’s been stories of innocent bikers being victimised by this rubbish approach from the Queansland cops.”
Riley had a bit more sympathy towards the outlaw gangs. He wrote, “We all jump up and down about how it’s affecting the casual bikers, but what about the outlaw gangs, it’s unfair to them as well. If someone breaks the law then it’s reasonable that they get punished, but you can’t punish people just for being together. The cops are telling these gangs to break up because they think they might break the law. That surely goes against what is allowed under the law.” Yes, good point, Riley. I don’t support the outlaw gangs, and I don’t condone their illegal and violent activities, but the principle of our law surely is that people are punished for breaking the law, not just because the up-holders of the law think they might break the law. I think the point should be made too, that the police aren’t to blame here, well, not entirely anyway. It is the government who introduced the legislation and the police are simply doing what they’ve been told to do. Although I suppose some may take that further than others.
Martin wrote, “There are good and bad policemen, I have experienced both and that's never going to change but I do not believe that if you have done nothing wrong you are going to be charged on trumped up charges. The police already have the powers to stop whoever they like whenever and wherever. If you prove positive to a drink or drug test then they can also do a search of your vehicle. I would be interested to learn from any reader if they have been stopped and prosecuted for nothing whether they were riding with a group of mates or singly.” Wise words, I reckon, Martin! It might be an inconvenience being stopped, and it might be an insult (kind of, but remember they don’t know you) to be treated as a potential criminal just because you’re riding a bike (which is what I see as the main concern), but I agree that you’re not likely to be charged if you are innocent of any wrong-doing. And Martin has that challenge to readers – has anyone been charged for having done nothing wrong? Let us know if you have. Martin sums up: “Anyone  guilty of a serious criminal offence should suck it up and change their ways for the good of us all!” Agreed!
Anton accuses me of being, “Someone that hasn’t bothered to fully read or does not fully understand the archaic and draconian laws that have been introduced.” He continues, “It’s not about bikes or bikies! These laws are wide reaching and can affect any group, bikies or not. Germany allowed these kinds of laws in 1936 and we all know the outcome! You might think this is an extreme example but hand the power to governments and they inevitably will abuse it, if not today it’ll be tomorrow. You need to fully support the efforts that are made to rid this country of laws that are discriminating, eroding freedoms and are against human rights, or stop writing half-baked support”. Well, I must admit that I haven’t read all of the proposed legislation, Anton, so I am not in a position to make expert comments. My reply was not intended to be “half-baked support”, but I concede that it could well be taken that way. The fact is, I was still in the process of making up my mind about all of this. As I said in my reply, my initial reaction to these laws was a bit blase, to the extent that I tended to believe (or half-believe) the rhetoric that innocent riders would not be disadvantaged: well, not much anyway. But the more I thought about it, the more problems I saw with it. That's where I was coming from, and that's why my reply wasn't as strongly opposed to it as might be expected. I think my reply showed my strengthening opinion during the course of thinking more about this legislation.
I expressed my opinion, but it's good to get opinions from readers, such as those you express here, so that this Questions page can be a voice for readers, and not just my opinions. Your comments remind me of that famous quote, “All that is necessary for evil to triumph is that good men do nothing.”


GOING BUSH?
Craig is thinking of going for something more dual-purpose than his current road mount. He asks; “I'm thinking off changing from my XJ 900 to a Yamaha TTR 600. I am wondering if anyone had some info on the TTR600, and things to look out for? They are going for a good price.”
The Old Bloke’s Reply:
From what I can find out, Craig, they seem to be a good thing. Partly built in Italy and using some Italian components was one thing that kept cropping up in comments I read. It’s more off-road focused than other things – like the Suzuki DR650, for example – but it you’re going bush, on rough fire trails and the like, the TTR should handle it well. All the comments I read praised it for build quality and reliability, so that’s a good sign. Juts make sure what you get has been used but not abused! If it’s been properly looked after it should be a good ride. Any readers have any comments on these?

A BETTER BIKE FOR THE LONG COMMUTE
It’s always interesting to get emails from overseas; just goes to show how small our world is now in this digital age. Barry is a reader from the U.K. and writes seeking advice on a better bike for his now longer commute to work. “I currently ride an FZ6 (naked), which is a fine bike under most circumstances but perhaps not for the task which I believe it shall soon be set, namely a fair bit of long distance motorway commuting in the UK most of the year. I’m talking of a 60-mile commute each way to work. The bike will save me around £40 a week through toll avoidance and fuel economy, hence the plan.
“The FZ6, being unfaired and highly strung is not the weapon of choice, so I am thinking of buying a workhorse bike, cheap as possible. This bike must be durable, reliable, easy DIY, cheap parts, economical, comfortable and with good weather protection. Temperatures here can often go down to about 0 to -5C in winter, but main problem is wind and rain.
“I keep coming back to one bike that fits the bill: Yamaha XJ900 Diversion, with shaft drive (which would appear to be a huge advantage). Downside of this bike is it’s big and heavy, I am 5ft 7 on a good day but still pretty strong and fit (53). In all other respects it seems the perfect choice. I’ve also looked at the TDM 850 – quite tall but I seemed to fit just about OK. Have read it’s reliable but a bit of a pig to work on. GSF 600 Bandit – I’ve ridden these before, again, a bit frantic and I have reservations over chain life. Old BMW flat twins – high seat and reliability questions. FJ 1200 – don’t know if I could manage the weight. GSX750 – unknown entity to me. CBR 1100 – the old one – ditto the GSX.
So, any suggestions from your? I still think the Divvy may be the one."

The Old Bloke’s Reply:
From what you say, I'm inclined to agree with you. The Yamaha XJ900 is a very solid reliable machine. It only has a half-fairing, not a full fairing, so you would still get some wind / rain on the lower parts, but it would be much better than a naked!
Reliability and longevity are key issues when you're clocking up 120 miles each day to work and back. Yamaha are generally reliable anyway, but those older style bikes, like the XJ900, are pretty bullet-proof, and long lasting.
The former editor of one of our local bike mags has an earlier one as a commuter / tourer when he isn't riding a test-bike and he loves it!
You could have a look at the story on old bikes that are still good, or in some cases even better, for today's all-round use.
There is a fair bit in that article on the XJ900, although it's mainly the older model being referred to. But the Diversion gets a mention in the article too, and continues the earlier model's reputation for reliability.
Weight is the issue, of course, along with a tendency to feel a bit top-heavy. But they're not too bad really. I don't think you'd have any real trouble, although it's obviously a lot heavier than the FZ6.
Of the other choices, I think that bikes like the GSX750 are more like sports bikes – similar to the FZ6, only more so perhaps; so not really for 120 mile commutes. Old BMWs I'd tend to steer away from. They are known to be capable of high mileages, but when you're getting something that old, trouble can be more likely. They can be troublesome with carbies and getting them to run properly too. The FJ1200 is pretty old now, and yes, they’re also pretty heavy. The 900 – earlier model or Diversion – would be a better choice.
The TDM could be a good choice. A fellow I know traded up from a XJ900 Diversion to a TDM900 and loves it. I haven't particularly heard of them being hard to work on, although they are liquid-cooled, which adds a bit of complexity, and perhaps the 5-valve head creates more complex work too; I'm not sure.
Another bike I mention in that article is the Suzuki GS500. They were available with a fairing in later years. Not hugely powerful, of course, but a good reputation for reliability and longevity. They're a pretty basic motorcycle, so easy enough to DIY on.
I hope that has been of some help. Maybe readers have some suggestions?

Readers' Replies:
Ivor thought the Diversion was a good choice too. "As I think you mentioned somewhere, those XJ900s used to be very popular with Ulyssians. They're simple air-cooled designs that are relatively easy to work on (if you're used to working on bikes) and very reliable from what I've heard. A mate of mine had one as a commuter and seemed to like it."
Navin had another suggestion. “Barry might also want to look at the Honda Deauville 700. Fuel injected, shaft drive, built in panniers, 3/4 fairing with options for lower deflectors as well. Very popular in the UK. I have the older 650 which has done the 20km commute and the 300+km trip, and love it. The new 700 is even better.” Good one, Navin. They don’t make those now, but they were a very practical bike, and would indeed do a good job for what our reader wants.  

WHAT BIKE?

I get a few questions from people seeking my opinions on what bike to buy - like the one above! I publish some of them, but not all of them. I’ve had a few recently that I haven’t published, so I thought I’d publish this one. It’s from Dennis, who is a younger (well, much younger than me!) reader who is looking to buy a bike. His demands aren’t too great. He writes:
“I love motors, cars bikes etc. But I am a beginner on a bike. I am more than capable at low speeds but that’s where my skill ends. In saying that I hope I can learn one day. For now though, 100kph is fine for me.
I have 3 bikes on my mind and want to pull the trigger on one. What is your opinion on the following: Honda NC700SA (I read your review), Suzuki Gladius 650 (that sound is amazingly addictive), Suzuki GSR 750 (maybe too much bike for me), Honda CB500F. I would love to know your thoughts. Are they all made in Japan?

The Old Bloke’s Reply:
You sound like a bloke after my own heart, Dennis – I love motors, cars, bikes! Anything mechanical I guess.
Anyway, on to bikes. Some brief thoughts on the bikes you mention.
The Honda NC700 you know about, if you've read my report. Good bike, but its engine being half a car engine seems to give it a car-like character rather than a pure motorcycle character. A good bike, but I think I'd prefer others.
The Gladius is a great little bike, but it is a bit hard in the seat and hard in the suspension. That might not bother you, but it would me, and it was a problem for a friend of mine (similar age to me) who bought one a couple of years ago. (He now rides a V-Strom).
I haven't had much to do with the GSR750. It's supposed to be a more user-friendly version of the GSX750, and that should make it a good bike. But I haven't ridden one.
The Honda CB500 impressed me a lot! I rode the R model, but it is the same as the F other than the F being a naked and having different bars. If you haven't read my report on that, click here. It's the smallest of the bikes you mention, but I was still impressed with its performance.
Of  these, I think my pick would be the CB500. Especially if you're not after super performance; although I still reckoned it went very well!
The CB500, as I mention in the test, is made in Thailand, but doesn't seem any worse for that. These days it's hard to know where bikes are made. With BMW running engines from China in some of their bikes, anything goes these days!
Another bike that's worth considering is the Suzuki GSX650. There's a test of that here.
I hope that gives you some help. The final decision, of course, is which one suits you best, so try to get a test-ride on each if you can. Let me know what you decide!