ASK THE OLD BLOKE ?
As I mentioned on the first page, one of our regular readers, Peter, suggested this. He reckoned that a page where people could write in with questions would be a good idea. I thought it was too! And Peter was the first one to write in.
How does this work? Well, what happens is you can send an email by clicking the "email" button at the bottom of the page, (the address, if you want to just cut-and-paste it into your email program, is as follows: theoldbloke_bikes@yahoo.com.au) and I will publish the question, and whatever answer I might have come up with, on the page here.
And if you see a question you can offer some help with, or even just an opinion, then send me an email and I will publish your reply too.
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KEEPING YOUR COOL
Russell read the mention in my Blog of riding in extreme heat. He writes, "I won't ride if it is too hot, hence my question. Can anyone recommend a reasonably priced protective jacket that doesn't turn into a sauna on these hot days? I have a Rivett jacket now that offers great protection but it is like having a blanket on. Any suggestions?"

The Old Bloke's Reply:
The jacket I use in summer is a DRIRIDER DRIMESH. The photo on the left is me, and was actually taken on the day I did the ride in the extreme heat.
These work very well. You can feel the air flowing through the mesh before you're out of 1st gear. And even on that particularly hot ride I wasn't actually sweating a lot. (But 40-degree heat is hot no matter what you're wearing!).
It's a bit hard to see in the photo, but the red bits are mesh, and the black bits are solid textile. (Other colours are available). Mine has a zip-in wind protector, but the current version has that plus a zip-in thermal lining; so you could theoretically wear it all year round. It comes with CE armour in the elbows and shoulders. Price is $299.95.
A cheaper alternative is the DRIRDER AIRMESH 2. These are a similar textile and mesh style jacket; and that's one pictured on the left. They come with TDF armour. They don't have zip-in liners as standard, but they are available as an optional extra. They claim "The Airmesh 2 has been designed for the rider that needs maximum ventilation during those extreme summer temperatures, while still being protective and quality built." Price is $199.95.
Sydney City Motorcycles stock both. Motorcycle Accessories Supermarket should do too. Both will do mail-order.
They're just two, but there is quite a range available these days. Check out those web-sites and you should find a good selection.
Readers' Replies:
Gary recommends Joe Rocket brand. As he said, some of their range is very expensive, but he says “If you shop around you can get discontinued lines for under $200. The one I bought has been the best jacket I have ever owned over 38 years, and I wear it year round. Very stylish, light, comfortable, lots of well placed pockets and safety features. Plus the very necessary removable liner to create full flow-through ventilation.”
He also offers a tip when buying a jacket. He says, “Whatever brand you buy, avoid anything with a shirt-style collar. A simple collarless design will maximise airflow to the neck and up under the helmet. It will also allow complete freedom of head rotation (essential for those over-the-shoulder safety checks!). This exposed area can be shielded for cold weather by simply adding a neck sock.”
Rod says, “I’ve heard some very good comments on the R-Jays All Seasons Jacket which, like most vented jackets, is a waist length jacket. MCAS has this jacket at $300.” Yes, R-Jays are usually good value.
Martin says that he has just bought a Triumph jacket. He says, “It has protection in the elbows, shoulders and back and comes with a zip out quilted liner for winter use. What I like about it is the vents are opened by zip, two in each arm and another right along the back. It has extra protection with some leather on the upper and lower section of the arms.” As he says, it would, presumably, only suit a Triumph owner. But he also makes the point that “If he Googles his requirement he will find heaps of jackets with all the specs etc.”
A point I should make just in summary. Zip-out thermal liners don’t always leave the jacket cool when removed. My winter jacket is a Rivet, and with the thermal liner removed, although it feels lighter and kind of cooler, I found I sweated more than I did with it in! It’s mostly to do with lack of ventilation and particularly the plasticky type of lining material. So I always leave it in. I thought this was just me and that particular jacket, but then I found other riders, with different brand jackets, had found the same thing; they sweated more with the liner out than with it in. For summer riding you need a jacket with good ventilation, and preferably one with something other than the smooth plasticky-type lining.  

WHAT NEXT?
Mike wrote seeking advice on what bike to buy next. He says he has recently got back into bikes after first riding in the late 1960s. Next month he is due to get his unrestricted motorcycle license.
He says, “Due to a hip replacement, I began on an Aprilia Scarabeo 200 scooter; then last May bought an Aprilia Scarabeo 500 scooter. I pretty well ride each day, using the scooter as my main mode of transport and have nearly 10,000km up.
"Coming off the LAMS restriction next month I have been looking at the possibility of a classic style bike. In particular the Triumph Bonneville, or Harley Sportster 883L. But I’m not sure these are what I should be looking for. What I really like about the Scarabeo 500 is its comfortable ride, fuel-economy, brakes, great under-seat storage room, relatively low seat height of 780mm, and dry weight of 189kg.”
One thing that concerns him with the bikes he has suggested is weight. He says that he is 167cm, and weighs just on 60kg. He says it took him a while to get confident with the weight of the 500. But he's narrowed down some requirements. He says, “I've worked out that I'd be more comfortable on a bike that lets me sit up, similar to a scooter riding position. And I'd want to have a windscreen. But would I be struggling too much with either the Bonneville's dry weight of 203kg or the Sportster's 251kg? Am I just entertaining an old teenage dream regardless of the practicalities? I’ve looked at the 650cc area of the market, but have come to the conclusion that few bikes in this category would offer me more features than what I already enjoy.”

The Old Bloke’s Reply:
You got me thinking a bit on this one, Mike! Firstly, I wouldn't recommend the Harley. I think the extra weight would be very noticeable! The Harley is about 60kg heavier than your current mount; that’s a big difference! Harleys don't feel as heavy as they are though, because the weight is carried down low. But that’s the situation with a scooter too. So I think you'd really notice the difference with the Harley!
It's been a while since I rode the 883 Sportster, but they are still, in my opinion, not a comfortable bike. The 883L I believe has the same suspension (or lack of it!) as the Nightster. (And you can see what I thought of that by reading the test!). The Custom Sportster in that combined test was better, but still not what I would call comfortable. I'd think, from what you've said, that you'd be disappointed with it for the sort of use you have planned. That's just my opinion, but let me say that if you do consider the Harley, make sure you take one for a good long test first!
The Triumph Bonnie is, in my opinion, a much better proposition. I haven't ridden one, but they go quite well, and they certainly look the part in terms of “classic style”! In terms of comfort, one guy who owns one described the seat as being "like a plank!" (I've sat on them, and I tend to agree!). He has a different seat, which I think was an option from Triumph, and finds that much better. The weight I think you'd get used to; it's not that much heavier than the Scarabeo. Again, take one for a good ride, but I think this would be a better choice than the Harley.
Now, I know you said that you've ruled-out the mid-size bikes, but I'd recommend taking another look. Weight would be around the same as the Scarabeo (or less), they are easy to ride, and the performance would be much better than the Scarabeo. The Aprilia has good performance for a scooter, but from the specs I found, it only produces 29kw. A decent 650 would double that. So you'll get much better performance, and much better handling.
Which ones? Well, I’ll be doing a mid-size comparison soon that might help decide this, but here are a couple of suggestions.
The Triumph Street Triple is a bit of a "hooligan bike", but it's fairly comfortable and goes well. It's riding-position is reasonably upright too. You say that you want a screen, so you’d need to add that, but you'd have to do that with the Harley and the Bonnie too.
Now I'll recommend a couple of bikes I haven't ridden (although intend to just as soon as I can). The Kawasaki ER6 (faired or naked) has a reputation as a good all-round mid-size bike. This isn’t what you’d call “classic style”, but if you don't mind stepping outside that, then I think it’s worth considering.
It hasn't been released yet, but the Yamaha XJ6 Diversion should be a good mid-size bike too. Riding-position is fairly up-right, and they've been designed to be more responsive at lower revs than the FZ6. The naked version is due out in a matter of weeks, with the faired version a couple of months later. Both this and the Kawasaki produce about twice the power you've got now.
But to get back to a more classic or traditional style bike, and considering you've already owned a couple of European bikes, I'd suggest having a look at the Ducati 696. I haven't ridden one of these either, but I did ride it's predecessor the 695. The new one is apparently better. I think you might like it. The seat height is quite low too, which might be another thing that you'd like. It's a bit expensive, for what it is, but still in the region of what you're thinking of spending anyway.
Regardless of what you buy (in these range of bikes), one thing you're going to miss is the storage. So I'd recommend getting a rack and bag, or preferably top-box, fitted before it leaves the showroom. 
So, there are a few thoughts I came up with. Anyone else got some suggestions?

Reader's Reply:
Surprisingly, there wasn’t a lot of reader response to this one. Ivor recommended the Triumph. He firstly reckoned that the Harley would be a bad idea. “Going from a scooter to a Harley would be a very big jump! Especially for someone of relatively light stature. Like you, I think that he’d end up hating it. Probably by the time he straightened it up out of the driveway!” He also thought the Triumph was a better choice for Mike than the mid-size bikes I suggested. He said, “I know that mid-size bikes make good economic sense, but he says he’s looked at them and doesn’t like them. Plus he says he’s after a classic style bike. So I think the Trumpy would be the perfect answer. It’s not too heavy, has loads of classic-bike appeal, and enough power to do whatever he’d want. A hard seat can be cured either by fitting an after-market one, as you mentioned, or taking the original to an upholsterer. I’ve read an add for some place, I think it was called Comfy Seats or something, that said they modified stock seats and made them more comfortable. Alright, I admit I might be biased, being of UK descent, but I think the Trump would be the bike for him.” Pretty good advice there I think. Let us know what you get, Mike!

HOW TO TALK?
Doug wrote in with a question on intercoms. He writes, "I was wondering if you could ask your readers what experience they have had with intercoms etc. We are looking for something that we can plug some music into and one where you can actually understand what the other person is saying. There appears to be a huge range as well as costs, and every time I talk to someone about them or make an on-line enquiry I get bamboozled with tech talk, bluetooth, wired, wireless etc. We don't need GPS, telephone connections etc, we just want to talk to each other and listen to some music."

The Old Bloke's Reply:
I can't help at all with this one, as I haven't had any experience with intercoms. But I know many readers have them, so let's have your recommendations!

Readers' Replies:
Rod says he has had an Autocom (British made) system hard-wired to his bike for a number of years and found it to be of excellent quality. He says, “We have had no problem hearing each other (and my hearing isn’t too good), or the MP3 player, up to speeds of 120kph. Bluerim Australia is the supplier/distributor and they provide first class service. Check them out at http://www.bluerim.com.au/
Con said that he hasn’t had experience with them, but did go looking. He said that the Nolan N-42 N-Com seemed to be a good choice. “To me, the Nolan was a well-known brand, and not over-done with features I wouldn’t want. You can connect a phone to it, but you don’t have to. The whole package costs just under $300, but you’ve got to buy a helmet kit for the other person, which costs a further $100. Still a lot cheaper than ones with all the bells and whistles. There were other ones around that were cheaper, but not as reputable brands. I think that’d be the one I’d go for, but as I haven’t actually bought one I can’t give you the benefit of personal experience at using it.”
I hope that helps a bit, Doug. Apparently some people have intercoms that are old and not made any more. Others have models that incorporated features like bluetooth connectivity that allowed use of mobile phones etc, which is not what is you want.
By the way, an i-pod, or even a cheap MP3-player, is a good solution to just listening to music, and also replaces any need for ear-plugs.
A RACK FOR THE GSX1400?
Tim (who wrote about his Suzuki GSX1400 in the “My Bike” section), wrote about getting a rack and bag for his bike. He writes, “Just wondering if you know of a place or person who has bag and rack to suit my Suzuki GSX1400. I don’t mind second hand or new at right price. I can get Ventura combo at local bike store for around $400.”

The Old Bloke’s Reply:
I checked a couple of on-line suppliers, and that price sounds about right. It might be slightly cheaper on-line, but add in the freight and it’d be about the same. Not exactly cheap are they! I suppose you checked that great shopping-mall of cyber-space, eBay? I did a check on there for you anyway, and couldn’t find anything. You’ve probably also checked owner’s forums too, as I know you did that when you were looking for your new exhaust can.
I’ll put your request here on the Questions page and see if any of our readers can help. (I won’t leave this open here. If you can help, please write to me and I’ll put you in touch with Tim).

KWAKA RATTLES
Ian wrote to ask if anyone could help with a rattling noise in his Kawasaki 1300. “I have a Kwaka ZG1300 with a rattle in the internals when the load is off, e.g. changing from 3 to 4th say. It sounds like a chain rattle. I have fitted a new cam chain and adjuster, checked timing chain etc, also checked main and primary chains. Tolerances all look ok. This all started after I stripped the motor, did new valves, seats etc. No, I had the sump off to check for lost tools! I would appreciate advise from one and all.

The Old Bloke’s Reply:
Umm, are you sure it isn't that 10mm socket you dropped into the sump? Sorry, only joking! Bit tricky, this one. From what you say, it sounds like it could be cam-chain. The cam-chain would be more likely to rattle when the load is taken off, as in the scenario you describe. At the point of changing gear, (or when changing from accelerating to decelerating) the load on the motor changes. It changes from the top-end driving the bottom-end, to the bottom-end driving the top-end. (If that makes sense?). So any slack in the cam-chain would make itself heard more at that point. (The same principle also applies to primary-chain, although you say you've checked that too).
One possibility could be if the sprockets on the camshafts were worn, you'd be matching a new chain to worn sprockets. And that could cause the chain not to mesh properly with the teeth of the sprocket, resulting in the noise you hear.
Another possibility could be ignition timing. If the timing is out, (or if it's firing unevenly), this can cause some weird noises; especially if it is too far advanced.
These are all guesses based on what you've said, and my limited knowledge. Obviously not being able to hear the noise makes it more difficult too.
Anyway, hopefully someone will have some further suggestions. (We do have some clever readers out there!).
P.S. After reading my reply (which I had emailed to him), Ian wrote to say that he had fitted a new sprocket and idler pulley. He added, “Using a stethoscope, it sounds like it’s coming from the transmission. Funny though, it wasn’t there before I stripped the motor. I know exactly what you mean about the change in drive direction, and yes, that is when it happens. Even if it did turn out to be either the primary or secondary chain (my original guess) I can’t find one new or even at wreckers.”
So, over to you! Hopefully someone out there will have a few more suggestions.
WHICH TYRES?
Tim wrote for advice on what tyre to fit to his Suzuki GSX1400. He says, "I'm up for a new back tyre. I got about 5000kms out of the Bridgestone BT20 I had on it.
I was just wondering if you have any suggestions on tyre choice. My mate runs Michelin Pilot Road 2 and swears by them, so I might try them. Price is $320 each.
But I'm open to suggestions."
The Old Bloke's Reply:
Well, the first thing, to me, 5,000km doesn't seem like a lot from a rear tyre on that sort of bike; but of course it depends on how you ride it. If you really make use of all that big-bore grunt, then of course it's going to chew out the tyre quicker than if you just cruise along gently.
It's difficult getting advice on tyres; and a bit difficult giving it. It's a bit like advising people to buy a Ford or a Holden - many people (perhaps like your mate!) are very brand-loyal. If you haven't read it already, you might like to read my article on tyres for some thoughts on the whole process of buying tyres.
I like Michelin, although they are more expensive. My own bike has Dunlop D252, which came with the bike, and seem to be a good compromise between wear and handling. I've got almost 5,000km up and the rear tyre is still fine. But I don't ride hard either. (Well, not TOO hard!). I've also heard good reports, as an all-round handling and good wearing tyre, on Dunlop D220.
Getting back to Michelin, when I last bought tyres, on their web-site was a comparison feature that compared things like handling, ride, wear etc for each model of their tyre available for your specific bike. I just tried to find that again but I couldn't get it. You could try to see if you can find it, as I thought it was quite useful at the time.
P.S. On doing a bit more research I’ve just discovered that the Dunlop D252 I mentioned is actually an OEM tyre produced by Dunlop for the Yamaha XJR and FZ6. Doesn’t mean you couldn’t use them on something else though.
Anyway, we'll see if our readers have any suggestions.

Readers' Replies:
Ivor reckoned that for a 1400cc engine, getting 5,000km from a rear tyre was actually not bad! (As I said, it depends on how you ride it!). He says, “What you buy will depend on your priorities in the wear / handling equation. The best handling tyre won’t wear well, and the best wearing tyre won’t handle well. Some people like the best tyre at one particular end of the scale, while others like something that falls somewhere in between.” Yes, that sums it up pretty well – couldn’t have put it better myself! He continues, “My impression is that Dunlop swings a bit more towards the wear side of the equation – as borne out by The Old Bloke’s wear rate on his – while Michelin swings a bit more towards the handling side. I stress these are impressions; I haven’t done back-to-back comparisons on my bike.” Well, I went from Dunlop to Michelin on my previous bike, and while I didn’t notice a big improvement in handling (I thought it handled pretty well on both), I did prefer the feel of the Michelin. Ivor had a further suggestion. He says, “The multi-compound tyres sound like a good choice. (Again, no personal experience with them). They run a harder compound in the centre, which increases their life, and a softer compound in the sides to aid handling. I think most brands make them, but I seem to recall Metzler as being one brand that did them.” Yes, good point, Ivor. I haven’t tried them either, but the theory is good! They are more expensive though.  
Con suggests checking out owner’s forums. He writes, “Owner’s forums are a great way to pick the brains of other people who own the same type of bike. You usually get a lot of useless chat as well, but get around that and they can be useful. Plus it’s good to contact other people who have the same impeccable taste in motorcycles as yourself!” Yes, good suggestion. I just did a quick search on Google and there is an owner’s club in Britain. It’s at http://www.gsx1400.org/
Laurie suggested using a dual-compound tyre too. He wrote, “The original Bridgestones on my ZX14 lasted 6,000kms. I put Michelin dual-compounds on and they now have traveled 12,500kms and still have good profile. They appear to be worn 50/60% so I am expecting at least another 9,000kms from them.” Sounds impressive! With regards to handling, he said he didn’t notice any difference between the Michelin and the original Bridgestones. He says he doesn’t use the full potential of the Kawasaki’s performance, but rides it hard enough to make use of all the tread. Sounds very impressive! 
WHICH BIKE?
Craig is in the process of buying a bike. After considering what would suit him, balanced with what he can afford, he has come up with two choices; "A Suzuki Bandit 1200cc, 1986 model; or a Yamaha Diversion shaft drive. Do you have any opinions on either bike?"
The Old Bloke’s Reply:
Well Craig, it would depend on the bikes, of course – condition and mileage etc. But both are well known for their long life and reliability, so you're on a winner with both really. The Bandit would be more powerful and deliver better performance, but the Yamaha (pictured above) is not exactly slow!
The Yamaha would also be a later model; the Diversions being produced from 1994 until about 2002. So that would tend to make me go for the Yamaha, just because it's the younger of the two. But, as I said, it would depend on the condition of each.
Both were popular bikes. The early Bandits were very popular; being a big performance bike in their day. (And they're still popular today!). A favourite with stunt-riders too, as I recall! The Yamaha Diversions were very popular too, especially with Ulysses members; because they were a good all-round bike. Good performance, comfortable and reliable.
So my preference would probably be with the Yamaha, because it will be about 10 years younger. But if condition and mileage are equal, and you want the best performing bike, then go with the Suzuki.

Readers' Replies:
Paul wrote, “The Diversion has a tall funny front end and this is why I did not buy one. But it is a shafty and I’d take that over a chain-drive any day.” Yes, the Diversions did have a reputation for feeling a bit “top-heavy”, or “anxious-to-tip-in”. For most owners, this was something you got used to though.
Tony, who owns a current-model Bandit (click here for his story of the bike), responded to the question with a very emphatic, “BUY THE BANDIT!” He added, “Sorry, I just couldn’t help myself!” He admits to being biased, but don’t dismiss the advice, an owner’s recommendation is always worthwhile! 
Tony, like me, reckoned either would be a good choice, depending on condition. He mentions a few specifics. “You just need to check for all of the usual problems that may start to occur with older bikes, eg chain, sprockets, wheel and head-stem bearings, leaking shocks, service history, oil colour, electricals, and general wear and tear. I could go on but you get the idea.” Yes, a good list of items to check. I mentioned the importance of checking condition, but it’s good to lay out some of the specific things. He also detailed some of the differences between the current Bandit and the earlier models, which I passed on to Craig.
Oops! It appears there was a typo in Craig's original email. Tony wrote in again to point out that the Bandit wasn't produced until 1996. So it appears the Suzi was actually a 96 model. In that case, the Suzuki would be a pretty good choice - again, depending on condition. It is quite a different bike to the Yamaha, and part of the decision would be which bike you enjoy riding the most. Good luck with the purchase anyway!

WHICH FUEL?
Russell wrote in with a question about fuel for his recently purchased (2nd-hand) Suzuki GSX1400. He said that the service manager at his local dealer told him, "Use 95RON premium unleaded but never use Shell Optimax unless in an emergency." He then downloaded a GSX service manual for a 2002 model and said that, according to the manual, the required fuel was 91RON. He asks, "Have any of your readers an educated opinion on this? Perhaps Tim can advise which fuel he uses in his GSX 1400. I would think also that your Yamaha would require the same octane rating as my Suzuki."

The Old Bloke's Reply:
Russell subsequently sent me a scanned copy of the relevant pages in the manual, and what it actually said was, “91 octane or higher.” I think the significant part of the manual's recommendation here is the “or higher.” They don't say 95 is preferable, but I suppose that could be another way of putting it. A case of the true meaning lost in translation perhaps?
Anyway, a couple of thoughts on this. Firstly on Shell. I've read that Shell unleaded is more dense than other brands.  Car engines mostly have sensors that detect the difference and adjust the engine's EFI accordingly. Apparently most bikes' EFI systems aren't as sophisticated and don't detect different densities in fuel. The result is that it will tend to run rich. With regard to Shell Optimax in particular, that is 98-octane; it's the higher-octane premium. (You'll no doubt be aware that there are three levels of Unleaded; the "normal" Unleaded 91-RON, Premium Unleaded 95-RON, and the Higher Premium, 98-RON).
I was surprised that the manual recommended 91 octane, although as I said above, it could be a matter of a "minimum" requirement. Of course, the compression ratio is relatively low - by bike standards - so it would no doubt run on 91 okay. But the preferred fuel would be 95. My Yamaha's manual states that "Premium Unleaded (95-octane) only should be used for the XJR."
So, all things considered my recommendation would definitely be to run it on Premium Unleaded - 95.

Readers' Replies:
Bill, who also has a Suzuki GSX1400, says, “When I bought my bike from Westerns Penrith, the salesman said to run it on "ordinary unleaded" which I normally do. On the odd occasion I have used 95 and 98 octane unleaded, with not a lot of noticeable difference to performance or distance from a tank. I was also advised to NEVER use E10. As to Shell Optimax, a friend who used it in a fairly new Honda said it went all jelly-like after the bike was not ridden for a few weeks.”
Yes, there are problems with using ethanol in vehicles not designed to use it; and I think most bike manufacturers recommend against using it.
Martin reckons, “There are a lot of urban myths about fuel, especially about Shell viscosity, which may, and I stress “may” affect carburretored systems, but not injection.  95 octane with 10% ethanol is definitely not as economical as 95 without ethanol. Basically, the higher octane fuels are more efficient and burn more completely in higher performance engines. My Triumph Sprint definitely runs more economically using 98 octane compared to the much cheaper to purchase 95 with 10% ethanol. I don't use ethanol blends at all, they are simply more expensive to use.”
Yes, the Triumph Sprint runs a compression-ratio of 12:1, so I’d reckon 98-octane would be the go for that. Martin is probably right about the “urban myths” that exist around fuel. But the petrol companies are guilty of creating their own myths – such as the reason we went to unleaded petrol; it wasn’t to remove the nasty lead from the fuel (as all the advertising at the time told us!), but to enable cars to run catalytic converts to reduce pollution. It was easier to sell something that would “protect our children from poisonous lead” (which was basically what they were saying) than something that would “restrict your exhaust and add even more anti-pollution gear to your car.” The fact that bikes didn’t get catalytic converters at the time actually made their exhaust emissions more toxic (until the engine warmed up) than they had previously been!
Tim, another GSX1400 owner, wrote in reply to Russell. He said, “I tend to agree with Elwyn’s comments. My manual recommends 91 octane unleaded fuel or higher as well. I’ve run premium unleaded in my bike since I’ve had it and traveled 6000ks without any problems. I’m no expert but I think if you run a higher octane fuel, and stick to the same one, you will get better performance and run smoothly without to many problems. You might even like to look at jumping on the gsx.org web-site (GSX1400 owners club) and putting your question to the lads there.” He concludes with congratulating Russell on his “Great choice of bike!”

MORE FUEL FOR THOUGHT!
Craig wrote in with another question on fuel. He writes, “What would be the best fuel to run my (early model) Yamaha XJ900 on? I’ve been using Shell V-max, the red one. Is it ok to use regular unleaded?”

The Old Bloke’s Reply:
The XJ900 runs a reasonably high compression-ratio (in over-all terms, not just bikes), so I would certainly run it on Premium Unleaded. The Shell "V-Power" is a 98-octane rating, which is higher than the XJ would need; I'd use 95-octane. This isn't available at Shell, but I wouldn't recommend Shell anyway, because, as mentioned in the previous question, word on the street is that Shell has problems, for bikes especially. Apparently the fuel is a little more dense than other brands, and so causes the bike to run slightly rich. People such as Motorcycle Trader’s Spannerman have recommended other brands rather than Shell. So I'd suggest using Caltex or Mobil; they both seem pretty good. Of course if you have a Woolworths near you then you can use that and save with the shopper-dockets! Woolworths used to get their fuel from some overseas source and the quality was a bit suspect. But now that they are "Woolworths Caltex" they get their fuel from Caltex and it is no different to the normal Caltex servos. (I've actually had this confirmed by a tanker driver during the past week).
There is another issue though. These bikes were produced before Australia changed to unleaded petrol. Lead was a lubricant and running an engine designed for leaded petrol on a fuel without lead will cause the valves to burn-out. ("Valve-seat-recession” is the term - the valves recess deeper into the head as the valve-seat and cylinder-head surfaces burn-out due to lack of lubrication). I'm not sure if the XJ900 was designed to take unleaded or not. But when I had my 1984 XJ600, I used Flashlube additive. Back then there was a fuel called "LRP" which was "Lead Replacement Petrol". It was intended as a temporary replacement for leaded petrol - and it was terrible stuff! I had problems with the bike (and an old car) running rough and not performing well. I changed to Premuim Unleaded and Flashlube and it was back to it's old self again! Flashlube is not very expensive, and so I would use that too. The engine might be okay without an additive to make up for not having lead, but I reckon it's better to be safe than sorry!

Readers' Replies:
Aussie (who owns a 1981 Suzuki) wrote, “Some time ago I used Shell 98 octane and as my sickle is carburetored, I found it did run far too rich as has been verified by your other readers. Idled rough, bogged down at low revs and exhausts were black as diesel. Self-tuning computerised injection systems are probably not affected so much. With regards to early model motorcycles. I'm not sure about European models, but I have read over the years that the Japanese were using unleaded petrol as far back as the mid 1970s. Their motorcycle manufacturers previously anticipated its coming and I'm pretty sure you'll find that even early K2 Hondas and Z1 Kwakas had treated valves and hardened seats to run on unleaded.” Aussie later confirmed (by checking a service manual for a 1972 Honda he used to own – so I’m not the only person who keeps manuals!) that they were installing hardened valve-seats back then. He added that he uses no additives apart from “A fuel cleaner occasionally to dissipate moisture.”
Possum brought me up to speed on this too, saying, “Japan went to unleaded petrol before most other countries, therefore all bikes made in Japan since I think 1976 will run just fine on unleaded. They of course ran just fine on the regular lead additive petrols here and other places following a little tweak of the carbies. In anticipation of the spread of unleaded, those clever Orientals beat the rest of the world by at least 10 years by being ready before the fact.” With regard to the XJ900, he says, “Just stick in the 91 or 95 RON as specified and ride on.”
Thanks guys! I had been told that the Japanese were ahead of us on unleaded, but didn’t know it went back that far! (And as I said, I used an additive in my 1984 XJ600 just to be sure). Their bikes must've been ahead of cars though, because I once had a 1978 Honda Civic and that wasn't approved to run on unleaded. Or not totally anyway. They recommended using an additive (or leaded, which was still available at the time) every third tankfull – which seemed a strange approach to me; although other manufacturers also recommended this method. Anyway, thanks again for your comments, and putting me straight on the Japanese and their engines.
COSTLY FALL.
Martin wrote in with the sad news that his Triumph Sprint had suffered a fall. Only a minor fall, but the repair-bill is looking pretty scary.
“My foot slipped sideways on some gravel and try as I may I couldn't hold the bike up, and it ended up on it's side. I couldn't believe the amount of damage. Brake pedal bent up and inwards, and deep scratches on the fairing; and on both sides the chrome (plastic) strips broke off. (I don't know why the opposite side went too?).
"Of course when it comes to replacement parts the dealers see you coming don't they! Two plastic strips $140, brake pedal $179 and - wait for it, bottom section of fairing $999.  If I claim on insurance the quote would be much higher (of course).  Excess is $500 so still quite expensive for me. I have straightened the brake pedal with a pair of grips, but not sure if it is cast and wonder whether this action would have weakened it to the point where it could break in use? I thought the colour on plastic fairings was solid but no, it is white just below the surface. Someone told me about a product which comes in two parts, a coloured wax like stick which you rub on as a filler then a matching polish which you put on over the top. Apparently the repair then becomes almost undetectable. Is there a glue which will reattach the plastic chrome trims? I was thinking two part epoxy or super glue but not sure which would be best?  Does anyone have any experience on any of these matters please?"

The Old Bloke’s Reply:
I'm sorry to hear about the fall. Sounds a lot of damage for a slow-speed fall, doesn't it!
Straightening the brake-pedal should be okay. (Happens on trail-bikes all the time!). If it was cast, you wouldn't have been able to bend it. I suppose you'd have to assume that bending it when it fell and then bending straight again would weaken it slightly, but I don't think it would be likely to brake off. If anything, I'd think it would just bend more easily if it got a knock or similar.
I know there are various products around that claim to fix scratches. A neighbour tried a product similar to what you describe on a car a few years ago and said it didn't work totally well. The problem being that the polish isn't exactly the same colour as the paint and so isn't an exact match. One option might be to try the mobile services that do paint repairs. There are a couple of these in our area that advertise that they fix scratches to bumpers and that sort of thing. They might be worth checking out - could be cheaper than going for a replacement. But if you want to do the repair yourself, then doing a repair using filler and touch-up paint might be more successful than the polish stuff. You could try the auto-accessory shops again with this. There is a paint product (sorry, I forget the name) that came with detailed instructions of how to fill and repair a dent or scratch. I also did some checking on the ‘net and there are quite a few sites that give information on repairing plastic panels (mostly car bumpers); some more useful than others. One I found that you might find helpful is here: http://www.thirdgen.org/touchup.
I would assume that the other side-strip popped off due to the fairing distorting on that side as it hit the ground. That'd be my theory. With regard to the glue, there is a special glue that's used to attach protector-strips on cars (the rubber strips along the doors), and I think that is available at auto-accessory places, so that's what I'd be going for there.
I suppose cost is a factor whichever way you go. The fairing damage is going to be the main thing. A cheap “at-home” fix is probably going to be difficult to achieve – with the desired results anyway. In the end, going the insurance route and paying the $500 excess might be the best option. Although if you can do the fairing repair yourself that would be cheaper.

POWDER-COATING
Adrian is intending to powder-coat his wheels and wrote in with this question. "When powder coating wheels, can the bearings be left in?  My reaction is no, but others argue you won't be able to get the bearings back in! Discuss please?"

The Old Bloke's Reply:
My first reaction was that it would be best to remove them, and then block off the wheel hub so that the surface where they fit isn't built up. But I was just guessing, so I contacted a local paint / repair shop for their advice. They said that yes, you do have to remove them - mainly because of the heat, which wouldn't do the bearings much good! And yes, the hub is then sealed so that the inner surfaces aren't coated. However they also recommended against powder-coating. I know this isn't what you asked, but I'll pass on the recommendation. Their reason for this is that if the powder-coated surface sustains any damage - such as stone-chips etc - it can't be touched-up. The whole wheel has to be re-done. With painted wheels the chips can easily be repaired. And they said a good paint-shop would be able to produce a result that would look pretty similar to powder-coating anyway. I'm not sure how helpful that is, but it's something to consider. But the short answer is yes, you do have to remove them.
Anyone have any experience with this?

BRISIBANE RIDING CLUBS?
Craig wrote in asking, “Do you, or any or any else, know of any social riding clubs in Brisbane? I live on the north side of Brisbane.”

The Old Bloke’s Reply:
A search on the ‘net revealed quite a few clubs. I don’t know what they are like, or anything about them, but you could always make contact. Go to the Motorycle Clubs index page. (There’s a couple there that I’d reckon you’d want to give a miss, but some others might be okay!). Here's the web-address: http://www.aussieweb.com.au/directory/directory.aspx?cid=4401&lid=60002
If you are a member of, or eligible to be a member of, the Ulysses club, there is a branch in Brisbane. Its web-site is at http://www.brisbaneulysses.org.au/
Another group, and one that I belong to, is called Ratbags. Yes, strange name. The club is intended mainly for Triumph owners, (and the name was taken from RAT - Rider's Association of Triumph), but as they say, all bikes are welcome! I couldn’t find where they are located in Brisbane, but I’m sure there is a Brisbane branch. You can email them at ratbagstriumph@hotmail.com. Also, check out the web-site at http://ratbags.org.au
I know we have a few readers from your area, so I’ll put it on the page here and see what suggestions we get.

Reader's Replies:
We got a very quick response from Lindsay, who is the editor of the magazine produced by the Redcliffe Ulysses Club. She wrote a very detailed reply with a lot of information and contact emails and phone numbers. I forwarded the details on to Craig. I haven't put the details here, but if you're interested I'll forward the info on to you. As Lindsay said, “You don't have to be a member of our club to join in any rides and think this is the same for all Ulyssess clubs. Come along some time and introduce yourself.” Pretty good advice for people anywhere who are looking fior riding friends.

PUNCTURE-REPAIRS?
Russell has a trip planned and wrote in to ask about puncture-repair kits. He writes, “I have never worried about flat tyres before but with the big trip coming up shortly I decided to get some info. I will go and talk to a few bike shops, but do you carry any tyre repair equipment? Does that pressure pack Goo work? Some guys carry a small compressor and plugs to get out of trouble.”

The Old Bloke’s Reply:
I used to carry some of that goo-in-a-can stuff (Finilec it was called back then) back in the trail-riding days. It isn't recommended though, because it sticks to the tyre and the wheel surface and apparently is murder to get off. I have a puncture-repair kit that I carry now that consists of a rubber plug (and tools to fit it) and a can of compressed air. I've seen one of these being used and it worked – got the bike home again anyway. So that is what I'd recommend. Seems to be the general recommendation too. But I’m sure there are more experienced travelers who have some suggestions! So over to you, readers!

Reader's Replies:
Gary has some good advice. He says, “Carry a repair kit. REMA does a good one, but Cargol is probably a better one by now. And if you do decide to use Finilec or the like (gee, that brings back memories!) please tell the bike shop mechanic that you have done so when you eventually have that tyre replaced – prevents a very nasty surprise for him."
I spoke to Russell today and he has bought a Cargol kit.
WHERE TO GO?
Garry, who wrote to our Feedback section last year after buying a new Triumph Speedmaster, wrote in to say the bike is going great and he is looking forward to nicer weather. (This being written in early Spring). And he was looking to get out and about on the Trumpy when the nice weather did arrive.
“Just a short question. I'm looking for places to go overnight on the weekend, with accommodation. Unfortunately I have to be at work Mondays, like a lot of us.” He asked if I had any suggestions. He lives in Sydney.

The Old Bloke’s Reply:
Can I first suggest The Bear’s publication of suggested rides. I think it’s called “Motorcycling Atlas Of Australia” or something like that. I’ve been intending to buy one myself actually. That should give you lots of ideas!
When it comes to planning a trip, one of the first questions to ask is how far you intend to travel each day. And this varies enormously from one person to another. Some people aren't happy until they've clocked up at least 500km for the day; others are quite happy with half that. For the purpose of this reply, I’m working on a daily route of around 300km – 350km. I reckon that's a good day's ride, especially for the style of bike. By that I mean that cruisers are meant for relaxing, taking it easy and enjoying the ride, not for see-how-far-we-can-get-in-a-day type riding. Well, that's my interpretation anyway!
If you want to go further than this, just consult the map and go to a more distant point. If you want to travel a shorter distance, just pick a spot along the route and make that your destination.
Well, from Sydney you have three choices, North, South, or West. (You run out of road pretty quickly if you go East!).

NORTH:
Travel to Gosford, preferably by the old Pacific H'way. This is heavily speed-limited and I believe heavily policed, but it's an interesting ride. From Gosford keep going north through The Entrance and then head towards Morissett, on the Western side of the lake. (As you live in Sydney I'll assume you'll want to avoid going through cities!). Head up to Maitland. While in the area, a slight detour to Morpeth is worthwhile. Actually, depending on the time of day you get there, it could make a good lunch stop. It's a quaint historic place.
From there go to Dungog, then along the famous Bucketts Way to Gloucester. I’ve heard Bucketts Way described as being a bit rough, but others say it’s fine. Either way, it’s known as a good biking road. (I haven’t been along it, so I can’t comment).

Return: Go across to Nabiac. There is a great motorcycling museum there. Then travel out through Forster, enjoying the coastal scenery, and back onto the highway. Then it's head for home. If you wanted to detour off the highway you could go out through Wisemans Ferry and Windsor.

WEST:
Go out through Windsor and travel the Bells Line of road to Lithgow. (At this point there are a couple of trips you could do; and I’ve listed an alternative below). From Lithgow it's on to Bathurst. At Bathurst you can visit the motor racing museum (well worth the visit!), and of course do the obligatory lap (or several!) of Mt. Panorama. For me, I'd spend enough time at Bathurst to make that a final destination. But if you want to go further, you could travel on to Cowra. Cowra is an interesting town and has a few attractions, like the Japanese gardens.

Return: You could come back the same way, or you make it a round-trip and go through Boorowa and on to Yass. There is a fair bit of empty road and empty countryside through here, so that might be a trip you'd prefer to do in company with another rider or two; or you might be happy to do it on your own.
From Yass head towards Goulburn. A good detour on this leg is to turn off onto the old Hume Highway and go through Gunning and Breadalbane. The road is pretty deserted, and has some nice bends to enjoy. (Much more interesting than just riding the 4-lane!). From Goulburn it's back to Sydney. This is around 430km, so it's longer than my planned distance, but most of it is on good easy roads, so it probably wouldn't take much longer than returning the way you came.

ALTERNATIVE: As an alternative from Lithgow, you can head out to Mudgee (grab some wine if that's your fancy!), and on to Gulgong; the town on the $10 note, and a very historic place.

Return: Detour out through Kandos for a change of scenery, then back to Lithgow and return as came.

SOUTH:
Head south and turn off onto the Grand Pacific Drive. Most people would ride through National Park, but you've probably done that, and I'd miss it to get to other parts quicker. Going down through Stanwell Park and across the Seacliff Bridge is always worthwhile though. At Bulli, turn up Bulli Pass and onto the highway – you won't want to waste good riding time travelling through the city. At Albion Park head west and ride up the famous Macquarie Pass, through Robertson and then head down into Kangaroo Valley. And on to Nowra. This a great ride!
From there follow the highway to Ulladulla; which is a good spot to stay if you've ridden far enough. Or go further and on to Batemans Bay. Batemans Bay is a very touristy place and an interesting place to stay. (This was the route I traveled in my story on Touring, so for a bit more info and some pics you can have a look at that).

Return: You could come back the same way, or you could turn left just out of Batemans Bay and head up through Braidwood. A winding mountain to climb and some great country roads.
Braidwood is a very “time-stood-still” type of town, and I like it for that reason. Then onto Goulburn and head for home. This is further than the trip down, but not by much. Going straight back up the highway (without detouring through Kangaroo Valley etc) would be quite a bit shorter though.

Well, I hope that gives you some ideas. I think you'd find any of these trips an enjoyable experience. I must say that, when browsing the maps and putting these suggested trips together, I was very inspired to pack the bike and head off myself!  I should mention that some of these roads I've never been on; I've just heard about them and read about them. Others I've been on though.
Any readers have suggestions?

WHICH TENT?
Craig wrote asking if I had any suggestions on buying a “reasonable tent” for weekends away on his XJ900.

The Old Bloke’s Reply:
I'm the wrong person to ask about camping! I gave up using a tent for accommodation about 30 years ago. So I'd be likely to say something like, "What's a tent? Check the local motel / hotel guide." But I know that camping is not only cheaper, it also has a good atmosphere. In a hotel or motel you don't get the same sense of camaraderie that you get when using a camping ground and sleeping under the canvas. My only suggestion would be to visit the local camping shops, or perhaps shops like BigW, for something small and easy to carry. I'll put your question here on our Questions page and see if any readers have more worthwhile suggestions. So, over to you, readers!

Readers' Replies:
One reader seconded my suggestion of checking out camping stores, in particular, those that supply equipment for hiking and bush-walking. "Anything that is small enough and light enough to carry in a back-pack will fit onto your bike okay."
Ivor wrote, "I'm with The Old Bloke on the whole camping thing. Check out the motels! Seriously though, I think you'd find most tents that you'd carry on a bike would be small, cramped and uncomfortable. But some people like it like that! If you don't have to do it camping style, check out a cheap room in a hotel."
Aussie had some advice. He said, "My DMH 2 man dome tent kept me sheltered on rallies and even a couple of bushwalks for nigh on twenty years. It's easy to erect and if the wind isn't blowing too hard, simply pack your gear in to weigh it down without having to hammer in pegs. I have to admit that it was a bit heavy carting it through the bush, but it's made for motorcycling."
Unfortunately, he says that particular tent is no longer available, but similar ones are available.
Aussie has another worthwhile tip. "Always buy bigger. If you are alone, get a two man. If you take your lady or friend, a three man is the go."


REPAIRING DAMAGED ALLOY
One of our readers asked for a more detailed explanation of how I repaired the damaged alloy parts on my bike after the fall. He said he’d had occasions when he needed to do that but had been afraid to try for fear of making it worse.

The Old Bloke’s Reply:
The main thing I repaired was the clutch lever. It had significant scratches across the end of it. I got the angle-grinder and used a fine-grain disc. I just lightly touched the lever, in a kind of rolling-motion so that I maintained the round shape; although it was a series of flat-spots rather than actually round I suppose. The lever is very soft so it didn't take much to grind away a small amount of metal. Then I got some sandpaper – a fairly fine grade. I think it would be about 400-grade. That got the "series of flat-spots" looking more round – again, rubbing in a kind of rolling motion that followed the roundness of the end of the lever. This also took very little pressure. This procedure got almost all of the scratches out. To completely remove all traces of the scratches would've required deeper sanding, and I didn't want to go too far. Then I used a 1000 grade sandpaper to get the surface smoother. This still left slight sanding marks, but the lever was rounding off well with this. Then when it was basically as I wanted it, but still showing scuff marks from the sandpaper, I switched to 2000 grade. This got it smoother, and left no sanding marks. I then used a cutting-compound car-polish to polish the surface to a smooth and shiny finish. It worked very well! There are just a couple of little "pock-marks" remaining, being the deeper sections of the scratches which I didn't want to push my luck by sanding further to remove, but they are only very small.
As I mentioned, the end of the handlebar had some very slight scratches. So I used the sanding technique on those (not the angle grinder, they were far too small for that). These marks only took a small amount of sanding and then polishing to completely remove. The end of the bar has a slight circular-machining-type finish, so I sanded in a similarly curved motion so that any sanding marks would kind of match the machining-type marks that it had.    
There was no particular skill involved in all this. Just very light touches with the angle grinder, and then careful sanding with the sandpaper. The only "technique" was doing it in a rounded motion rather than just sanding it flat.