ASK THE OLD BLOKE ?
Welcome to the latest installment of our Questions page. This is a page where people can write in with questions, which I will try to answer, and will also allow other readers to offer their answers too. There's a lot of experience out there to draw on!
How does this work? Well, what happens is you can send an email by clicking the "email" button at the bottom of the page, (the address, if you want to just cut-and-paste it into your email program, is as follows: theoldbloke_bikes@yahoo.com.au), and I will publish the question, and whatever answer I might have come up with, on the page here.
If you see a question you can offer some help with, or even just an opinion, then send me an email and I will publish your reply too.
EAR-PLUGS?
Don wrote in with a question on ear-plugs. He wrote, “I'm curious as to your philosophy on the wearing of ear plugs.”

The Old Bloke’s Reply:
Well, Don, my opinion on earplugs is that I probably should've been wearing them years ago! I have some tinnitus, which I'm not sure is attributable to helmet-noise, but I'd reckon that was probably a contributing factor. I get quite a lot of wind-noise; around my right ear much more than my left, for some reason! I bought ear-plugs a while ago, but found them a bit uncomfortable. I also had trouble getting them in far enough that they didn't catch on the helmet. I then tried an MP3 player. That can be a good way to keep the wind-noise down, and also provides some music. But I had trouble with this too. I had trouble getting the earphones to stay in place (after trying about 3 different shapes!). And the wind-noise was actually worse with the earphones in than without them!
It is my intention to get back to trying the earplugs again. There have been times recently – at expressway speeds when the wind has been in just the wrong direction – when the wind-noise has actually been mildly painful. So your question comes at a good time; I’ve been thinking about them again recently!
The Earmold ones (that are custom-made from silicone and moulded to the exact shape of your ear) are the best to get, but they are expensive, and also only available at certain outlets in the major cities. So I will try the foam ones again.
Helmets are a big factor with noise, of course. And some types of helmets are inherently more noisy than others. I currently wear an Arai helmet, and they do have a reputation for being a bit noisy. Open-face helmets, of course, can be horrific for wind-noise at road speeds. (I haven’t worn an open-face helmet on the road for well over 30 years). 
From what I've read – and I can imagine this is very true – wearing earplugs makes the ride much more relaxing, because you don't have the wind noise (or even engine noise if the engine is particularly loud) to spoil your comfort.
I know there are readers who use them, and some who don’t; so this should be an interesting topic. So readers, what are your thoughts on this?

Readers’ Replies:
Peter wrote in with some excellent advice and comments. “Noise inside your helmet is contributed to by the design of your helmet, the shape of your head, your speed, wind direction, the design of any screen that you have fitted, and probably a number of other factors. It therefore follows that what may be a quiet helmet for one rider can be noisy for another; and little may be gained by changing to what others have described as a quiet helmet.
“I work in a noisy industry and am very aware of the need to preserve my hearing. Hence I have always used ear protection when riding outside of the metro area. I have tried two types of custom molded ear plugs. Both have proved less than satisfactory for me. They get uncomfortable on a long ride, and changes in the position of your jaw can alter the integrity of the seal. To find out why, stick your fingers deep in your ears and open and close your mouth. You will feel the shape of your ear canal change. I have also found that these molded plugs can slightly dislodge when I pull my helmet on, also altering the integrity of the seal.
“I've tried a number of soft foam plugs, and have settled on "No-Touch" foam plugs by Peltor. They are easy to use, comfortable and provide excellent protection. Here's the link. Foam plugs seal well, change shape with your ear canal when you move your jaw, and in my experience provide better level of protection than the custom molded plugs.”
Some good points there, Peter! Now, readers, did you try the finger-in-the-ear test as you read that? I did, and it makes a good point about the molded plugs. Peter says that the No Touch plugs are available locally from BOC, which have outlets pretty much all around Australia, well, in the main cities anyway. I checked with my local store and, while they didn’t have them in stock, they can order them in.
Aussie had some good advice too. He mentioned a long ride he did prior to using ear-plugs and waking the next morning with his ears ringing. “Back at work I started inserting industry supplied three flanged ear plugs.” (Brands are Protector, Com-fit and Smartfit). “Been using them for more than twenty years and they work. They can be bought on line from $2.20 up to about $6-$8 for the softer yellow/orange floppy ones. Some chemists can get them in. On older bikes like mine you can actually hear the muffled engine as the wind blast is cut out. All the better to hear unusual rattles my dear! Also the humming exhaust note sounds delightful. Enough to send you to sleep. What? Scrub that last bit! Wearing an open face, I find that somehow a flying crawly often finds its way inside and threatens to bed down inside my ear unless I have it plugged. I shake my head at the outrageous prices asked for ‘specialised’ motorcycle ear plugs.”
Thanks, Ausie. I think a good point here is that the tapered, conical shaped plugs are easier to use and probably more effective than the straight foam roll-down ones.
Ivor has a tip on how to use them. “You said that you had trouble with the plugs staying in place when you put the helmet on. A common mistake with ear-plugs is that people don’t push them in far enough. They’re supposed to go in about 10 to 15mm. Really until only the end (enough to grab to pull back out) is outside the ear. If you do that the helmet won’t dislodge them. Get them in properly and they do make a big difference, and yes, as you say, it does make the ride more relaxed.” Yes, good point. I recently read an article (mentioned below) on the ‘net that describes how to properly insert ear-plugs and they do go in much further than some (like me!) might think. However, Ivor says he doesn’t regularly use them. “Have to admit I don’t use them as often as I should. It’s just more gear to put on! Not that I mind putting gear on (I wouldn’t ride without good gear!), but it’s an extra I don’t always bother with. These days I mostly only put them in for long rides. I’ve partly cured the problem though with a good, quiet helmet. The design of the helmet base I think is important as the better ones deflect some wind away, rather than letting it all in and buffet around your ear. I know Shoei are supposed to be good, but I’ve found some cheap brands have good design against wind-noise.”
I think Peter’s point on helmet design is a valid one – it depends on the design of your head as much as the helmet. But, having said that, the helmet design must be a factor. I notice Shoei are advertising a new design helmet, the TZX, which they claim delivers a 60% reduction in wind-noise compared to their TRZ design; which itself is not known as a noisy helmet. What Ivor said about the base of the helmet is a good point. Most of the wind probably comes up from the base of the helmet, so if the lower portion of the helmet is curved down it will deflect the wind down, away from your head. If that section is more straight, naturally enough it won’t deflect as much wind, so more wind gets inside. Then the design of the inner shell becomes important, to seal your head as effectively as it can against wind. A complex issue!
Russell wrote, “I use earplugs to reduce wind noise but I do have sensitive hearing. I find the foam plugs more than suitable and also very cheap.” He also had a comment on helmets. “I have 2 different brand helmets with no reduction in the noise either way. Has anyone ever done a comparison on helmets regarding wind noise? That would be interesting to see if there is any difference.”
Rod sent in a couple of links that partly answers your question, Russell. Web Bike World did a comparison of noise – or rather they measured noise, but then said it couldn’t be used for comparison because the recordings were done under different circumstances etc. But read this article! It has a lot of interesting and enlightening points on helmets and noise.
One thing that is mentioned in the article above is the Windjammer helmet sock. I came across these a couple of years ago and have considered getting one to try. I’ve hesitated because I think it could feel a bit claustrophobic, as well as increasing the fogging-up of spectacles. It would probably feel a bit hot in summer too, I would think. If you click the link in the article on that web-page you’ll go to their review of the product.
Another link that Rod sent in was to an article on the same site, specifically about ear-plugs. On the page is a link to a more detailed article on fitting plugs. It bears out what Ivor wrote about inserting them almost fully into your ear.
Finally, Rod says that his advice (which, he adds, he doesn’t follow), is, “Get the best fitting helmet you can afford and if you value your hearing wear some form of hearing protection. Even though MotoGP riders wear custom fitted helmets they still wear hearing protection. If it good enough for them it should be good enough for all riders.” Yes, good point!
Steve has a different approach to this. He writes, “Besides finding earplugs uncomfortable I use my ears as a safety warning device. Obviously your eyes are the primary source of information being used for decision making when riding or driving but even with all the wind and engine noise it is amazing how much you hear. Sometimes your nose (smell of diesel) might give you a warning about possible danger, say spilled oil, while other times your peripheral vision, or ears, may alert you to something that you had previously been unaware of. This is actually the main reason I choose not to use an iPod or wear earplugs. I may of course finish up deaf as a post as a result of the wind noise in which case I'll be in real trouble! But I can honestly say that my ears have saved me while driving, riding and cycling, on several occasions, by alerting me to the fact that I had missed a potential danger. We motorcyclists need as few distractions, and as much information, as possible to enable us to avoid the many dangers on the road so I use all my senses to give me the best chance of survival.” That’s a good point too. I’ve used an ipod (or actually other-brand MP3 player) while riding, as I mentioned above, and I have to say that I did feel a bit more isolated from the world around me; which, as Steve says, is a bad thing. It’s also one reason I have resisted using ear-plugs, because I like to be able to hear everything that’s going on around me. The counter-argument to this is that it is said that, when properly fitted, ear-plugs cut down the wind-noise but still allow other noises to get through. In that sense you might even be better off with the plugs in. Although what you do hear has to be kind of muffled, so it must have some detracting effect on being able to hear what’s happening.
On the issue of helmets, Steve says, “Obviously we all have different shaped heads so I am of the opinion that although certain helmets may deservedly have a reputation as being ‘quiet’ it is possible that some people will find them unsatisfactory. The opposite would also apply to helmets which are claimed to be ‘noisy’ – there’s sure to be a boofhead or 2 who will find 'em perfect! It's a personal decision but quite difficult because you won't know if a helmet is comfortable or quiet until you have been able to wear it for a while. That is why I tend to replace a helmet with the same brand, model and size if I have been happy with the current helmet.” He also makes the point that helmet fit is important. Obviously a loose-fitting helmet is going to let more wind in, and therefor more noise!
  Well, there you are Don – lots of opinions and comments, and a lot of reading if you follow the links. And some arguments for and against. The general consensus seems to be that some form of ear protection is a good thing. It’s just a matter of which type.

THE BEST WAY TO SELL?
Click here to go to the previous Questions page.
Click here to send an email
Click here to go to the front page. Click your BACK button to return to the previous page.
Jim wrote in with a question about selling his bike. “Unfortunately I have decided to sell my bike; a 1997 Honda VFR 750F with only 21,000 genuine km's. As you can see, I don't getting the opportunity to ride too much and it seems a sad waste of such a beautiful bike. It is in excellent condition and since I have not bought or sold a bike in some time I would like to know your opinion on where to advertise for the best result? Trading Post, Just Bikes, Motorcycle Trader etc.
Which one gets the best result? Perhaps your readers may have some ideas. In any case, I would welcome your comments and any feedback.”

The Old Bloke’s Reply:
Bikesales.com is good. It's not too expensive and it’s a popular site. I sold my last bike through there. In terms of papers / books etc, Motorcycle Trader is a good option. It’s very popular too, and is another place people tend to look when they are in the market for a bike. I found my current bike in there. It's not expensive either. So they are two that I would recommend. And I would try those rather than local newspapers. A friend of mine, who liveson a main road, has had success parking the bike out the front of his house with a sign on it. So that's worth a try if you live in a suitable location.
If you are interested, that’s the actual bike above, and it looks like a great buy! Jim lives in Windsor NSW. He is asking $6,200 (ono), which, considering the condition, low kilometres and rego until August, is probably a good price. I have several more photos I can send you. Just let me know if you’d like any further information and I can put you in touch with him.

A WEIGHTY ISSUE – AND EXHAUSTS
Thierry wrote in with a couple of questions about his Yamaha TDM900. The first had to do with the claimed weight of the bike. His owner’s manual stated the weight as 223kg (wet). He found a figure of  190kg (dry) on the internet, while my test stated 192kg. He wrote, “The bike can hold 20 litres of fuel. With fuel specific gravity that brings the weight of a litre at around 0.8 kg, it would add only around 16 kgs to the bike, bringing its wet mass to 206 kgs.” He wondered why there was so much difference, commenting that the bike didn’t feel like it weighed 223kg.
He also had a question regarding after-market exhausts. “Do you have experience with after-market exhausts? Would you recommend them for the TDM? I'm thinking maybe to fit a set of Akrapovic slip-on mufflers, they look and sound very nice. My friend told me that it would need some tuning if I do that, and that he does not know anyone who can get that perfect.”

The Old Bloke’s Reply:
Regarding the weight specification for the TDM, I'm not sure where I got the weight figure from (I usually get it from the manufacturer's web-site if I can, but I have used other sources too). Yamaha currently state the weight as 223kg with 20 litres of fuel. So I have added that figure to the article.
As for the difference between the “dry” weight and the “wet” weight, when they say “dry” they really mean dry - no fuel, no oil, no coolant, some manufacturers even drain the fork-oil. That makes the weight look better in their specifications, but makes the “ready to ride” weight considerably more. I would assume that is the case with the TDM; and explains the large difference between the two weights.
Regarding the exhaust, fitting an after-market can, or even complete system, is very much a personal issue. Some prefer the better sound, some want those few extra horses, others want them left just as they are. I haven't had a lot of experience with after-market exhausts on my own bikes. I did once put an after-market exhaust on a Yamaha 250 I owned; it was much louder than the original exhaust, and made it sound like a single-cylinder Harley! Which I quite liked at the time.
If you're just replacing the muffler section re-tuning isn't usually necessary. You can have it re-tuned if you want to, of course, but to do it properly you would need to take it to someone who has a dyno and / or exhaust analyser equipment. The average motorbike shop doesn't have that sort of equipment. But as I said, if it's just the muffler section, and provided you're not going to something radical like a straight-through pipe (which would be highly illegal anyway!), then you shouldn't need to get it done. If you were replacing the whole exhaust, then yes, you would need to have it re-tuned. To find workshops that do that level of tuning you could try the Yellow-Pages, or even some of the links on my Links page (like the Motorcycle Network) might get you someone in your area.
A couple of readers have replaced their mufflers with Beowulf units from the UK. These have been much cheaper than the products available locally (like Staintune, and Akprovic etc), and have arrived very quickly too. And they sound good! Click here for their web-site.
Anyone have any opinions on this?

Readers' Replies:
Ivor wrote in with a comment about brands. "I've heard that Beowulf are very popular in Britain. Staintune seems to be the name here, and are a well-known high-quality product. I think the cost might be a bit high. But it would be with Akropovic too. I'd be thinking Staintune or the Brit ones."

MIX 'N' MATCH?
Tony wrote in with a question about tyres for his Suzuki Bandit. “I am in the market for a front and rear tyre at the moment and this brings up a question I would like to pose. What are your thoughts on matching front and rear tyres? Some of my motorcycling friends say it is the only way to go, others don’t seem to mind unmatched tyres. I have also heard that some people put a softer compound tyre on the front and a more hard wearing tyre on the back?
   “Seeing as I was in the market for a set of tyres I thought these would be good questions to ask.”
The Old Bloke’s Reply:
Ah yes, tyres, they are expensive, aren't they! And looking for the best deal will sometimes result in people putting a different brand on front and back. Mostly though, I think people put a different brand on when replacing just one tyre at a time. Having to replace both gives you opprotunity of going for a matching pair, or a mixed pair; so, as you say, it’s an opportune time to pose the question.
For me, matching front and back I think is important. Different brands / specific model of tyre will often have different handling characteristics, and different levels of grip, so you can end up with the front behaving differently to the back. So I'm a bit of a stickler for matching brand and specific tyre. That would apply even more so if the compounds were different. In fact, when I replaced the tyres on my own bike (from the factory-fitted originals), I went to a different type of tyre (dual compound) so, while the front still had plenty of tread left, I replaced both.
Having said that though, if the compounds and construction were the same, then in practice it probably is okay. I've known people to have a different brand front and back and have had no problems. But my advice would be to fit a matching pair.
I can understand the theory of putting a harder compound tyre on the back, but I think the manufacturers will have done this already, in some cases anyway, in constructing their tyres for optimum performance as a pair. I've seen manufacturer specs that describe compounds in the front tyre being slightly softer than that used in the rear.

Readers' Replies:
Con wrote, "Yes, you've summed it up pretty well. Matching brand / type is always best, for the reasons you mentioned. And the tyre makers build their tyres to work together as a pair, so mixing different brands isn't a good idea. However, I have to say that in the past I have had different brands of tyres front and back and suffered no ill effects. That happened because I was only buying one tyre. (And one bike I owned came that way and that's the way I left it until it needed new tryes). But if he's buying two tyres anyway then definitely buy two the same."

WHY THE DIFFERENT SHAPE?
Barry wrote in with an interesting question. “Why are motocross and speedway helmets shaped differently to road-race helmets in the chin area?
I have raced all codes with the same helmet from the days before full face, never found an answer to this question yet.”

The Old Bloke’s Reply:
An interesting question, Barry! I’m not sure I know the real answer, and a quick search on the web didn’t reveal any definitive reason either. Some general information about design, but not exactly what you asked. So I’ll tell you what I think.
My impression has always been that they are designed for different situations, and different types of crashes. A motocross crash is likely to be at slower speed, and the rider’s fall will be different. A road-racer will mostly go down at high speed and proceed to roll or slide, while a motocross racer is likely to hit the ground with more vertical force – especially if he happens to fall from somewhere up in the sky above a jump! – but not slide as far or as fast.
The protruding chin section gives better protection from a frontal impact – because there’s more room between the helmet and the rider’s face. However it wouldn’t slide as well on the ground, because the protruding chin would catch and tend to rip the rider’s head down. It also wouldn’t roll as easily as the more rounded design of the road helmet.
Another factor is air-flow. The motocross rider needs maximum air-flow to keep him cool. That’s one reason why they don’t have visors, but have an open front with the rider wearing goggles. The protruding chin allows more air to flow in around the lower areas of the rider’s face. However this would be too much air for road-race use; or even normal road use. Reports of people using motocross helmets on the road mention very high wind-noise.
They’re my thoughts on the reason. Any readers have more ideas?
By the way Barry, back in my trail-riding days I always wore a road-type full-face. (Except when I did trials riding – I wore an open-face for that). But then I don't think there were any dedicated motocross helmets around then, as we have today!

HOW TO REPAIR SCRATCHES?
Tony wrote to ask advice on repairing scratches on a gearbox cover following a stationary off.
He was riding with a group and stopped to wait for other riders to catch up. As he stopped he was looking in the mirror, and when he put his foot down, unfortunately it went into a pot-hole. The bike over-balanced and went down.
The damage? “The left indicator was smashed beyond repair, the mirror had some scratches, a couple of small marks on the fairing, but what concerned me was the amount of scratches I got on the gearbox cover (see photo).
I have thought about rubbing it back with some fine wet and dry and perhaps getting it re painted. What experience have you had with this type of repair?
I am looking for a cheap alternative and I am quite practical so should be able to repair this type of damage. I want to fix it up so it doesn’t look so obvious. I'm a bit annoyed now as my once spotless Bandit has a blemish.”

The Old Bloke’s Reply.
I’m sorry to hear about the lovely Bandit going down! I know exactly how you feel, having had a stationary tumble myself. (Click here for the story).
On the bench in my garage is the cover that got scratched on mine. I bought a new one (definitely not the “cheap alternative”!), but I intended having a go at repairing the old one; partly as a spare, but also to see how well it could be done. But I haven’t got around to doing anything with it yet. The cover on mine is plastic, but finished in a kind of fake alloy, so probably a bit difficult to re-paint even if I did get it smooth. I think the Bandit is finished in a silver paint though, which a spray-painter should be able to match and paint easily enough.
If you read the story of my “off” you’ll read the procedure I used to remove scratches from the handlebar end and clutch lever. This worked remarkably well. I think a similar process (varying grades of wet and dry, with perhaps a cutting-compound polish to finish) would work on your engine-cover too. Being plastic, you’ll need to rub very gently, but I think you should be able to get a smooth surface. Then you could take it to a smash-repair place and get them to re-spray it. Of course you’d need to take the cover off to do this, which shouldn’t be too difficult.
I’d start off with something like a 500-grade wet-and-dry and as soon as you get the deep scratches out, change to something around 1200, then 2,000. Basically, progressing to a finer grade as the remaining scratches get more shallow, until they are all removed. You’ll probably have a scuffed-looking finish by then, but it should be smooth, and the cutting-compound polish will get it even smoother. I think that should get the surface smooth enough to be successfully repainted.
With the other damage, obviously the blinker has to be replaced. With the mirror, it’s a matter of how badly it’s scratched. With mine it was minor enough for me to decide to leave it there; it’s not very noticeable. That’s something for you to decide. Expect to pay over $100 for a new one though! (You could be lucky and pick up a good 2nd-hand one if it does need replacing). With the fairing, you could try some of that Turtle Wax colour-matching type polish. I’ve heard varying reports on this – and there’s a report on it in that article from a reader who used it to repair damage from a stationary fall he had – but it’s supposed to fill scratches and restore colour. Probably won’t give you a perfect repair, but worth a try.
Any readers have any ideas? (I know there are people out there who have a greater knowledge of these sort of things than I do!).

Readers' Replies:
Ivor wrote, "I think you've covered the situation pretty well. (Although if there are any smash-repair experts amongst your readers they might have more to add). My only comment would be to start off with perhaps the 1200 grade. I think 500-grade would be a bit savage on plastic." Thanks, Ivor, you're probably right about that. Better to start slowly than remove too much too quickly.
Patrick wrote: “R and G make a cover from polycarbonate that just bolts over the existing cover and provides crash protection while hiding the cosmetic damage on the original case. See Just Bandits store. (Click here for the link). Thanks Patrick; even if he doesn't get the cover, that seems like a good place to know about.

PREPARING TO TRAVEL THE G.O.R.
Thierry (who told us about his TDM900), wrote to ask advice about preparing a trip to do the famous Great Ocean Road. He wrote, “Thanks for all the good reading you send to us. I would be very grateful if you could help me with a few questions I have.
   I would like to buy a magnetic tank bag from Ventura (16 litres) and I don't know if it is good to put it directly on the bikes fuel tank or maybe to put some kind of protection between the bag and the bike's tank.
   I also intend to ride to South Australia at the end of the month and coming back via the coast / great ocean road (3 days trip, 1 day up and 2 days back). Do you know this route? Are there fuel servos at regular intervals? And would you or your readers have any recommendation concerning accommodation on the way?

The Old Bloke’s reply:
With regard to the tank-bag, I would put some sort of soft cloth between the bag and the surface of the tank (although not under the magnetic bits, of course). I don't think bags generally do much damage - they are designed to be gentle on the paintwork - but there's no harm in being sure.
With regards to the trip, I have been through the general area, many many years ago, but never along the Great Ocean Rd. (I would like to, but it's a long way from where I live. One day ..!). However you should find some useful information on the web-site for The Great Ocean Rd. Here is their link. http://www.greatoceanrd.org.au/
I know some of our readers have been along there, so hopefully you'll get some first-hand recommendations.

Readers' Replies:
Bill wrote to say that he has just returned from a trip along the G.O.R. He said, “I can safely say that there are service stations at regular intervals and plenty of accommodation from backpacker, to motels, hotels and B&Bs.” As he said, it’s a very touristy stretch of road now, and not exactly remote. He did have a warning though. “The road is undergoing repairs in many places and will be closed for a several days from 18 May (if I have the date right). I would suggest Thierry check this out.” Good to know; thanks Bill. It would be disappointing if Thierry went to ride along there and it was closed!
Possum had some warnings too; not in terms of fuel though. He said “There are plenty of servos all the way to Adelaide, never too far apart. Just look at the map and plan a fuel stop every 200-ish kms or so.” The warnings he had were in regard to the actual road conditions. “The GOR is a gravel-strewn road with plenty of blind corners containing similarly blind self-funded retirees in their 4WD's towing blocks of flats disguised as caravans who feel it is more important to look at the scenery and drift all over the road rather than look where they are going and stick to their side of the road. And when you stop to look at the views, the wind waits until you are 10 metres from your bike then gusts with sufficient force to blow the thing base over apex.” He makes a good point; if perhaps just a little tongue-in-cheek. If anyone thinks of the road as a race-track smoothly winding its way along the southern coast, they’re in for a shock! The dangers of gravel and wayward motorists are things I’ve heard from other people who have traveled the road, and even from the authorities (check the travel web-sites).

ANOTHER READER TO BUY A TDM?
Yamaha’s TDM900 has come in for a bit of attention here on the web-site recently, with a couple of people buying them; and another buying its predecessor, the TDM850. Well, there may be another one. Dave wrote to say that he is considering trading up from his Suzuki V-Strom 650 to the dual-purpose type Yammie.
He says he got back into bikes about 11 years ago with a Suzuki 250 trail-bike, then moved up to a BMW FG650, and then went to the Suzuki; which was the first bike he had bought new.
He writes, “I stumbled upon your web site after searching for days to find a road test on the Yamaha TDM 900. You have done a very informative report on the bike on the 3 most recent models. Then it got better as you test rode the bike I presently have – the Suzuki V Strom 650A. I have been more than happy with its overall performance, but I am considering a change to the TDM – just for that extra bit of power and some more planned longer road trips. I am a shorty at 165cms. I was fortunate to lower the V strom seat height by 2cms by adjusting the front forks and replacing the linkages at the rear suspension. Couldn’t adjust the seat by trimming as there was no spare padding to do so. The local dealer has shown me that the seat on the TDM can be trimmed easily by about 2cms. Which would give me the same height almost as the V Strom. So I was wondering what your thoughts are?”

The Old Bloke’s Reply:
Well, yes, as I mentioned above, there has been a bit on the Yamaha TDM – my original test and then a couple of reviews since.
You've probably had a sit on the TDM anyway, but the interesting thing I found with it was that, although the seat is actually higher than the Suzuki V-Strom, it felt lower. I've got long legs, but on the V-Strom I still found it a stretch to put both feet on the ground, whereas on the TDM I had no trouble. So the seat height might not be as much of a problem as you think. The reason for this is the shape and width of the seat. If the seat is more narrow, especially at the front, it allows your legs to reach the ground better. I think this is the case with the TDM, the shape of the seat is better for getting your feet down.
The TDM is certainly more powerful than the V-Strom, and you notice that power when you ride it. I thought it went very well!
You can see what readers who own them think of them. Thierry recently bought a TDM, and you can read his story of his bike here. Another reader, Peter, has just bought an older model, the TDM850. Interestingly, he also looked at a V-Strom. You can read his story of the bike here.
I have to say though, I think the V-Strom is an excellent bike, and I've yet to meet an owner who isn't pleased with their bike. But, “size matters”, as the saying goes, and the extra capacity of the TDM certainly gives it a bit more get up and go. For new readers to the site I always recommend the safety-related articles. That's because I think it is a very important issue. Go to the “General” page of the web-site and check out a few articles there. And let me know what you decide.

WHEN TO FILL-UP, BEFORE OR AFTER YOUR RIDE?
Ivor has a question on when you should fill up. “I seem to recall reading on your site somewhere that you recommend filling up the tank after each ride. But I often hear about our unleaded petrol going off. Also, someone said to me recently that you shouldn’t keep topping up the tank because it’s adding good petrol to bad. His theory is to run the tank almost to empty and fill up just before you go for a ride, that way the petrol doesn’t go off in the tank before you use it. What are your thoughts on this?”
The Old Bloke’s Reply:
There are two opposing, and quite valid, arguments to this Ivor. Yes, I have written somewhere (I think in response to another question, anyway it’s somewhere!) about filling up at the end of a ride. The theory with this is reducing the air in the tank. Air that contains moisture and can form condensation – water – in the tank. A previous owner of my previous bike used to travel a lot for his work, and he’d be away from the bike for a few weeks at a time. When he came to start it, he’d often have trouble and have to call the NRMA. They advised him that, especially in winter, moisture from air in the tank would condense and you’d end up with water in the petrol. Their recommendation was to keep the tank full. I’d previously had occasional starting problems with a bike, which I’m pretty sure wasn’t due to this, but I followed this advice anyway. (Anything that helps!). And it makes sense.
The other argument is that apparently fuel does “go off” fairly quickly. Some people will tell you that the quality of the fuel deteriorates after even just a couple of weeks in the tank. So their theory is to fill up at the start of a ride so the fuel doesn’t have time to go off before you use it. Also the point about topping-up the tank – rather than doing a complete fill – is that there is always a certain amount of old fuel in the tank, and if you keep just topping it up, then the percentage of old petrol, (or the age of a percentage of the petrol) will increase, resulting in poor quality fuel.
As I said, both arguments have merit. I fill up at the end of a ride, because I still think the moisture in the tank issue is an important one. (Some people will say adding a spoonful of metho will cure this, but I’d prefer not to have the problem in the first place). Here’s another reason along the same principle. At the end of a ride the bike will be hot and the tank will be warm, resulting in any moisture that’s in it having evaporated (or vapourised). Thus when you fill up, the (moist) air is dispelled from the tank. If the tank is cold (as it would be at the start of a ride) the moisture will still be sitting as condensation on the walls of the tank and will be mixed with the fuel when you fill up. Another reason is that if you are going for a ride with some mates, you don’t want to be delaying the start of a ride while you go to a servo to fill up.
Having said that, I do acknowledge the argument about topping-up rather than complete refilling and I try to make a point of sometimes running the tank low as possible (without resorting to pushing!) as a means of ensuring that all the old fuel is used up and the tank completely filled with new stuff.
Now, I’ll throw this in. I have an old car that doesn’t get driven very often. The tank is mostly no more than half full (it’s more expensive to fill a car’s tank!), and it’s not unusual for it to sit for a few weeks and not be driven. So the issues of old fuel and moist air in the tank are both in play. And I’ve never had any problem starting it. So, go figure! Anyway, there are the arguments and my recommendations. 

Readers' Replies:
John wrote to tell us about a product he’d been using. “Stale fuel in fuel tanks can be eliminated by using a new product on the market which I use. I have two classic bikes that only get used every now and then, so I always keep the tanks full and add STA-BIL to the tanks to keep the fuel stabilised. It is not cheap at $17.50 but a bottle with 118ml will treat up to 38ltrs.” You can check it out on their web-site; it looks like good stuff! (http://www.sta-bil.com.au).
Aussie wrote in with good advice from his own experience. He says, “Sitting in my garage for extended periods between tours and rallies had the tank rusting through in less then two years. Some years back I bought a WB Holden which had been up on blocks with a near empty tank for nine months. That rusted through at the lowest point as well. I know that keeping a full tank is the way to go and I'm not sure about 'off' petrol. No doubt old fuel gums up fuel systems over time but just how long a time I wouldn't like to say.”
Aussie also quoted an email he had received a recently from a guy who works at a Shell facility in Melbourne. “One of the most important tips is to fill up when your petrol tank is half full. The reason for this is the more petrol you have in your tank the less air occupying its empty space. Petrol evaporates faster than you can imagine. Petrol storage tanks have an internal floating roof. This roof serves as zero clearance between the Petrol and the atmosphere, so it minimizes the evaporation.” (Hmm, my car - the family car as well as the old one - are lucky to ever get half-full with the price of the stuff these days!).
So, the general advice seems to be to keep the tank full; so filling up after the ride, not before it.

INFO ON ISLE OF MAN?
Craig wrote in to say that he will be going to the Isle Of Man next year, and asked if anyone had any advice or info they could share. “I’m going to Europe next year, and lucky, the anniversary TT is on. So I will be in the area just in time for 100 year Isle Of Man TT! My question, has any one had experience with the great event? Mainly accommodation transport etc. Any info would much appreciated.”

The Old Bloke’s Reply:
Well, Craig, my first tip would be that you should take someone along to help carry your bags, take photos of you at the TT and so on. Now, I’d be happy to help out ….!
Okay, seriously, I know that a couple of our readers have been to the IOM, (one was mentioned very recently in the Feedback section – he even did a few laps of the circuit!). But before I turn it over to them, next year isn’t actually the 100th anniversary of the races. That happened in 2004; as racing first began in 1904. The current circuit, which crosses over Snaefell Mountain – and is the course that is used today – was introduced in 1911, so this year was the 100th anniversary of that. Don’t let that put you off though! Anyway, it’s over to our readers.

Readers’ Replies:
Steve has just returned from his second visit to the great Isle, so he knows a fair bit about the place and how to do a trip there. He wrote in with a lot of detail, which I’m sure Craig will find very helpful. I’ve edited his reply a little for the purpose of posting it here, but if anyone would like more detail, just let me know and I’ll forward you the full reply. This is the basics.
“You can fly into either London (Heathrow or Gatwick) or Manchester and the ferries leave either Liverpool or Heysham for the Island. Ferries are run by I.O.M. Steam Packet Company and all info is available on line and bookings can be made on the net as well. Get in early as they fill quickly once the TT gets nearer.
“There is a Hotel chain in the UK called Premier Inn. They provide quite good rooms at a reasonable price and there are 2 of them within easy walking distance of the Ferry Terminal at Liverpool if you want to have a look around before you head to the Island. The Ferries drop you in Douglas on the I.O.M. and there is a good bus service covering the Island. Tickets and timetable info are available at the Terminal and the main bus stop is only about 100 metres away.
“There are a heap of hotels on the Island but they can be quite expensive during TT fortnight. If you contact I.O.M. Tourist Bureau via the net they can give you names for people who do Home Stays for the TT. Sort of B & B for TT visitors. That's what we did and it worked out well. (For this second visit he even stayed at the same place as he did on the first, Elwyn). You may find hotels a little away from the track to be cheaper but make sure you can get a bus to a viewing point. There are weekly tickets for the buses and trains on the Island and they are great value if you intend to use them all week. You get them at the Ferry Terminal in Douglas.
“Jason Griffiths does the motorcycle hire if you want to do a couple of laps. His shop is at Castletown which is about half an hour from Douglas by bus. The hire is not cheap at 300 quid for 2 days (and a 500 quid deposit which is returned when you return the bike) but there's not much option if you haven't taken your own bike. Jason retired from racing in 2007 and he's a really nice guy.”
Thanks, Steve, for the very helpful info.